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Until around a decade
ago the Axarquía region of Andalucía was
little known. Then, northern European expatriates discovered the pretty
hilltop village of Cómpeta, started buying up some of the run-down
'fincas' and farmhouses in the area and putting it on the map. Today,
rural tourism comprises a large part of the local economy. However, the
area is still breathtakingly beautiful and has not been spoilt by the
interest and influx of foreigners. The main attractions are the area's
dramatic hill and mountain scenery, its unspoilt, white washed villages
and the strong sweet wine that is made from sun dried grapes.
Because of the region's sub-tropical climate,
this is also a region where some of the more tropical fruits, such as
mango and kiwi are grown. The Axarquía is excellent
for hiking and several companies now run walking holidays from the UK,
centred around Competa. Horse trekking is similarly very popular here.
The landscape is riven by deep valleys lined with terraces and irrigation
channels that date back to Muslim times. Nearly all the villages that
dot the olive, almond and vine planted hillsides are of Muslim origin
with narrow, windy streets. La Axarquía joined the 1569 Morisco
rebellion and afterwards its inhabitants were replaced with Christians
from farther north.
Signposted routes with names like Ruta del
Vino link groups of villages in one-day drives along the snaking mountain
roads. The so called capital of the area is Vélez Málaga,
4 kms north of Torre del Mar which is fairly unremarkable, although the
hill-top Muslim castle is worth using up some camera film. The highest
mountains in the area stretch east from the Boquete de Zafarraya. The
abovementioned Cómpeta makes a good base for a stay. There is a
'Museo de Vino' here where you can taste the locally made wine and which
also sells locally made ceramics and has a good restaurant serving traditional
local dishes.
A few kilometres down the valley from Cómpeta
there is an exquisite Almohad-style minaret next to the church. A scenic
road winds west through the villages of Salares, Sedella and Canillas
de Aceituna eventually linking up with the A 335 north of Velez Malaga
which links up with the new highway to Malaga and beyond. The village
of Comares in one of the highest in Andalucía it can be spied for
miles around, rising high above the surrounding countryside. Frigiliana
is said by many to be one of the prettiest in Andalucia. Nearby Torrox
is the lesser visited of the two. |
